La Closerie Des Lilas: Time Travel For The Win!

When we spent some time in Paris (before the plague), one of the restaurants we visited was La Closerie des Lilas. Not only was their food exemplary, but it has a long and colorful history. Join us to travel back in time!

Disclosure: This post might contain affiliate links. If you buy through one of these links, it will not cost you anything extra, but we might get a small commission. Thank you for supporting us. To learn more, please read our full affiliate disclaimer page.

La Closerie Des Lilas

When we stayed (for free!) at Niepce Paris Hotel using Hilton Honor points, we asked the front desk for a good place to have dinner. Without hesitation he recommended La Closerie Des Lilas as an excellent restaurant and a favorite hangout of Ernest Hemingway. So we asked him to make a reservation and we spent the day exploring Paris, happily anticipating our dinner.

What Is the Meaning of Closerie?

Since I am totally not fluent in French, I had to look up what “Closerie” actually means. In my mind it must have to do with a cloister, but in reality it is just a small enclosed garden. The “Lilas” translation was easier, they simply mean lilacs. So the whole name is “a small enclosed lilac garden” and that is exactly what it is named for.

Where is La Closerie Des Lilas?

On the left bank of the Seine, in the Montparnasse neighborhood, you can find this historic gem. It was one of the restaurants favored by artists, so its regulars include some very famous names.

History of La Closerie Des Lilas

Since opening its doors in 1847, La Closerie has been a gathering place for the artists in Montparnasse.

1847 Grand Opening

When La Closerie Des Lilas opened, it was a simple open air café with one indoors room. It was one of the first cafes to attract both artists and the middle class of society,

Late 19th Century: Romantic Poets

Many French poets spent time at La Closerie, for example Charles Baudelair and Paul Verlaine. Somehow the quiet atmosphere in the garden was the perfect place to pen their poems.

Early 20th Century: Cubism

In 1911, Guillaume Apollinaire, a famous French poet, coined the term “Cubism”. He was good friends with Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dali and they would meet in La Closerie Des Lilas.

After World War I, the café became a hangout for the so-called Lost Generation.

The Lost Generation

Gertrude Stein, the American novelist based in Paris, was the first one to use the term “The Lost Generation”. She used it to describe the generation who came of age in World War I. ‘Lost’ in the sense of disorientation and confusion among the war’s survivors in the early post-war years.

Among that lost generation was the young Ernest Hemingway who moved to Paris with his wife Hadley, partly because of the favorable exchange rate. He wrote most of his “The Sun Also Rises” in La Closerie des Lilas.

Another member was Fitzgerald, who supposedly gave his manuscript of “The Great Gatsby” to his friend Hemingway to read and critique.

Cameo Appearance in Woody Allen Movies

Two movies starring Woody Allen have scenes taking place at La Closerie des Lilas

What’s New Pussycat? (1965)

What’s New Pussycat? is a 1965 French-American comedy, written by Woody Allen, his first produced screenplay. In the film, playboy Michael (Peter O’Toole) calls all women “Pussycat” to avoid having to remember their names.

While Michael is playing chess with a young girl at the outdoors terrace of La Closerie, Woody Allen distracts her so that Michael can cheat and win the game…

Midnight in Paris (2011)

Another comedy written and directed by Woody Allen is Midnight in Paris. The protagonist travels back in time each night at midnight. In 2012, it won the Academy Award for Best Original Screenplay and the Golden Globe Award for Best Screenplay.

The people he meets at night all are regulars of La Closerie.

The Contemporary Closerie des Lilas

Before the current Covid-19 pandemic, we were able to visit and dine at La Closerie des Lilas. Join us in exploring this Paris gem.

The Bar

When we entered La Closerie des Lilas the first thing we noticed was an amazingly talented piano player. While waiting at the bar for our table to be ready, we savored the experience of good music and found out that they have live music almost every night.

Thoroughly enjoying our brush with literary history, we settled at the bar, not far from Hemingway’s preferred spot (there was plaque). After ordering some drinks we tried to imagine all the artists who used to meet and argue here.

What an amazing time travel! I promised myself to watch Midnight in Paris again, to give me an even better feel for the history of this place.

The Restaurant

Now it was time to move to our table. Accompanied by jazzy piano music, we settled in for our culinary experience.

First things first, we selected a wine that was in our price range. Then we had to embark on the difficult journey of choosing from so many good sounding entrees. Tom tried their foie grass and loved it, while I went for something shrimpy.

For the main dish, Tom chose lamb (Medallions of lamb, sweet pepper piquillo’s juice, wild asparagus and olives) while I went for a fish dish with asparagus and other veggies (Filet de Saint-Pierre rôti aux épices, ragoût de coques et capucines). Delectable! We enjoyed every bite.

Of course, we couldn’t eat here and not try their desserts! So after long and deep debating we went for a baked Alaska. Again, we were not disappointed and it was very fun to watch them serve it to the table, flambeeing it right there!

Prix Lilas, encouraging women writers

With such a rich literary tradition, it shouldn’t come as a surprise that la Closerie awards an annual prize (3,000 Euro) to women writers who write in the French language. It is appropriately called the Prix de la Closerie des Lilas (or the Prix Lilas) and it has been around since 2007.

What a fun way to encourage new woman writers!

La Closerie des Lilas Conclusion

In summary, you won’t be disappointed by visiting La Closerie des Lilas. Feel the vibes of the Lost Generation, have a real life experience of Midnight in Paris. Enjoy the highly rated food, sip your wine and relish the live music!

Have you been to La Closerie des Lilas? Please share your experience in the comments. If you haven’t been, be sure to put it on your bucket list, for next time you are in Paris.

Best Things To Do in Paris

• Paris on a Budget;
• Explore Paris;
• Visit Monet for Free;
• Important tourist scam warning: How To Beat the Shell Game !
• Hang out with the Lost Generation at La Closerie des Lilas;
• Explore the Montparnasse neighborhood in Paris;
• Find out about affordable Michelin restaurants in Paris: Bib Gourmand;
• Find out geeky Van Gogh facts and then seek out some of his paintings in Paris;
• Stay in Paris for free using your Hilton Honors points;
• Or use a free Hilton weekend certificate.

Pin La Closerie des Lilas