After I got my multiple sclerosis diagnosis, I did a lot of thinking and pondering how I wanted to fit this reality into my life. Could I still fulfill my lifelong dream of surfing, now with MS?
On the one hand it was a relief that we found out what was going on. On the other hand, it was a shock that my immune system had been eating my brain and that I wasn’t just a wuss. Well, maybe I still was a wuss, but my balance issues were real and unavoidable.
Now what?
In December 2021 I rewrote and updated this article with new information.
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Table of contents
First Step: Physical Therapy
When I had my diagnosis, my neurologist recommended physical therapy in addition to MS medication (Copaxone) . Turns out, PT was just what I needed. Not only did it show me how weak I was in certain areas, but also it showed me what to work on and how to work on it. Just what a goal-oriented person needs.
A list of measurable exercises to work on and strengthen the right muscles! Later on I added yoga, but physical therapy was my first step in getting stronger, even with MS.
Go Stand in the Corner!
One of my balance exercises was to stand in the corner, facing out, feet together and then close my eyes. While I do that, I try not to fall over. Oh, in addition, she would like me to keep breathing too. Not easy for a bear of very little brain…
This balancing exercise really amuses me, as in “My physical therapist put me in the corner!”
All of this was all good and well, and I stood in my corner, worked on my planking for a while. It didn’t take long to realize that this was not enough for my competitive nature.
Too Boring…
After all, I wanted to BEAT my MS. Since I always enjoyed my friend Jody’s surfing pictures, I made a plan. I decided that I was going to show MS that I too could learn to surf, even with MS!
Learning to Surf with MS
I mean, I love to swim, what would be a more natural way to work on it? Surfing would totally be working on my balance. Not to mention that I like going to places where people surf. It clearly would be an excellent MS challenge, whether I succeed, or if I fail gloriously :p
Frankly, snorkeling and surfing are my favorite winter sports! During this pandemic, I can’t think of a better way to social distance! OK, maybe birding…
Big Wave Dave Surf Co
So we booked a surf lesson with Big Wave Dave! in Honolulu. Nothing like learning to surf in the same place where surfing was invented! We arrived and met our instructor Brent. He was a friendly and competent teacher, who demonstrated to us how to get up from our boards to a standing position.
He also told us that surfing is 85% paddling, which seems about right. After we practiced our standing up, it was time. We walked to the beach where we boarded our surf board. Carpe diem!
Surfing with MS in Waikiki!
We paddled out and waited for a wave. Or really a better description is that Brent would push us out into the wave and then yelled ‘STAND UP!!!!’ when it was the right time. Clearly an optimist!
His pushing was helpful since it eliminated the need for us to recognize the exact right moment. In addition, we didn’t have to paddle to catch the wave. Just to get back to the starting point. Which still was a lot of paddling for somebody unused to that movement…
Catching Waves!
I wasn’t always able to catch the wave, even with his help, but I had a few waves that I (ok, Brent) actually caught and rode! Wow! What an amazing feeling!
Usually I was unable to come to a fully upright stance, but it was still so exhilarating and gave me a taste of how much I will love learning to surf.
Tom caught a bunch of waves too, but he got hit in the head by another surfer 🙁 That was definitely a downer. In hindsight, being at a very crowded surfing spot with tons of beginners wasn’t ideal. Just like us, most clearly had no idea what they were doing.
After that, it was a good time to end the surfing lesson and find something to eat to celebrate our very first surfing lesson in Hawai’i!
Maybe Stand Up Paddle Boarding Is Better?
A few days after my surfing experience I decided to try Stand Up Paddle Boarding with MS. Let’s just say I have a lot of room for improvement and I might have fallen off a bit more than the average bear.
Conclusion: Surfing With MS
In conclusion, I loved it, even if I didn’t fully stand up yet. The experience is helping me to visualize the right movement and the feeling and know which muscles to work on.
Next time I think I would rent a board and just work on catching waves and seeing how things are without professional help. And I would figure out how to protect my toes, elbows and knees from being beaten up. For now I end my planking sessions by pretending to be on a surf board and move into a standing position and surf into eternity and beyond!
Do you surf? Tell me about good beaches for beginners in the comments!
Other Things to Do on Oahu
Visit Pearl Harbor
- What to expect during a Visit to Pearl Harbor;
- Five interesting facts about Ford Island. Do you know why the missionaries renamed it?
- Where the Second World War ended! Visit USS Missouri. Now with historic video footage of the Japanese surrender.
- Not all Japanese were our enemy. Some brave ones fought for us! The story of the 442nd Regimental Combat Team;
Don’t Miss Out!
- Hiking Diamond Head in Hawai’i with MS: ten tips to help you succeed at this iconic hike for MS-warriors and other spoonies;
- Makapu’u Lighthouse Trail: Whales for the Win;
- Manoa Falls Hike with MS: celebrating failure!
- Snorkeling and Dolphin Watching in Honolulu: for me, swimming with MS is way easier than hiking with MS.
- Meet the birds of Hawai’i! Some are native, but most are not!
Comments
12 responses to “Surfing with MS, Don’t Be Afraid of a Challenge!”
I can’t imagine what it’s like to have this diagnosis, but this hits home as my sister-in-law has MS. I’m glad to read your optimistic post. I hope you keep writing and raising awareness for this cause!
Thank you, Briana! Sorry to hear about your sister-in-law, please give her my love and support!
Such an inspiring post…thank you for sharing!
Thank you! I am looking forward to surfing again some day, although I don’t know yet when I will have the opportunity.
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