A few weeks ago we took a whale watch boat from Dolphin Fleet Whale Watch in Provincetown, Ma. Provincetown is at the very end of the scenic Cape Cod peninsula close to Boston. The ship took us whale watching at Stellwagen bank, a National Marine Sanctuary where we saw so many feeding whales, it was unbelievable.
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Stellwagen Bank
After the last ice age, when the glaciers were retreating, they left large amounts of earth and rock in their wake. The Southern margin of the glacier left the peninsula of Cape Cod and also the plateaus now known as Stellwagen and Jeffreys Ledge. Originally above water, they gradually got covered by the ocean as it is today.
In November 1993, President George H.W. Bush signed the law that designated Stellwagen Bank as a National Marine Sanctuary. Stellwagen was the first national marine sanctuary in New England. The law enacted protections for the rich and diverse nature on and around the bank, including whales.
Why Do Whales Like Stellwagen Bank?
Since the Stellwagen bank is a huge (19 x 6 miles) underwater plateau with steep sides, there is a big depth difference between the edges and the top. The water depth on top of the bank is an average of 100 feet (30 to 40 meters) while the surrounding ocean floor is at between 300 and 600 feet depth.
In combination with the ocean currents, the cold water on the ocean floor hits the bank and suddenly diverts upwards, taking lots of fish and krill with it. The whales (and other predators) notice the splendid table of ready-to-eat food and flock to this fishy bonanza.
So Many Humpback Whales!
Over the years we have done many whale watches, from humpbacks in the St Lawrence river to touching grey whales in Magdalena Bay, Mexico. After striking out on my first three whale watching trips (in Kennebunkport, Maine) , I thought maybe whales were just imaginary animals but then I finally got to see some.
Now we usually we see a few whales on our trips, although whale watching is like a box of chocolates, you never know what you’re gonna get.
This time was different. Not only did we get to see lots of whales (at least ten different humpbacks) close to the boat, they also were happy to ignore us and show off different hunting techniques.
Feeding Frenzy
Whales were everywhere!!! Every time one of them disappeared under water, at least two others would pop up. We got to hear them huff and puff, saw them gulp big schools of fish and let the water flow out through their baleens so that they could swallow the fish left in their mouth.
Bubble-Net Feeding Whales at Stellwagen Bank
Often whales just open their big mouth and let the fish swim in, but over time they have found a more efficient technique. When they are underwater, they start blowing bubble while swimming upwards in a tightening spiral path. The fish above them get caught in this net of bubbles, and the whale opens its mouth and fills its mouth with delicious seafood.
From the boat we could see the water changing color and bubbles popping up before the whale would emerge with a mouth full of prey through the center of its net. Very fascinating!
Sometimes it is just one whale making a bubble net, but we also saw up to seven whales working together to catch fish in a huge cooperative bubble net. And off course, the birds, especially gulls, have learned that humpback whales are sloppy eaters so they shamelessly land on the water next to the whale and grab some easy snacks.
Kick Feeding Whales
Another feeding behavior we learned about is kick feeding. Instead of the normal smoothly disappearing tail into the water, the whale uses it to slap the water. The slapping confuses the fish and they don’t recover in time since the whale will switch direction and come right back up to have its meal.
On this trip we saw quite a lot of these kick feeding behaviors, fun to watch. Another feeding method which was appreciated by the birds.
Dolphin Fleet Whale Watch Provincetown
Since Dolphin Fleet Whale Watch got so many good reviews from other travelers, we decided to go with them to Stellwagen Bank. The boat was comfortable and spacious, the captain had 40 years experience, and the naturalist was very knowledgeable and a good teacher.
What I like about the whale watch from Provincetown is that you don’t have to go far out to see your first sighting. When we go out of Kennebunkport Me, or Rye NH, the boat usually has to go out for close to one and a half hour before you will spot the first whales.
There was a snack bar on board to satisfy our human cravings for food and drink although we brought our own snack. We highly recommend the Dolphin Fleet.
Bonus Finback Whales and Minkes
On the way back to Provincetown we got to see some bonus whales, a finback, which are huge but don’t stay up for long, and some minke whales, small and fast. Both species were too far away to get good or any pictures, but at that point we already were so happy about all the humpback action that we truly didn’t care :).
Conclusion Dolphin Fleet Whale Watching
Our whale watching trip with Dolphin Fleet to Stellwagen Bank was extraordinary fabulous. When you are in Provincetown or somewhere else on Cape Cod, consider a day trip to watch tons of feeding humpback whales. Provincetown itself is worth a visit too, a very picturesque town.
Have you been on a whale watch? Please let us know in the comments where you went and what you saw.
Other Whale Watching Adventures
Whale watching around the world:
- Whales in a river? Yes, the St Lawrence river has humpbacks and other whales!
- Or would you like to touch a whale? Look no farther than the grey whales of Magdalena Bay!
Or Would You Rather Go Birding?
- Never Smile at a Crocodile! Beginner’s guide to Birding in the Everglades;
- Birds, Dolphins and Fish Poop: Discover Sian Ka’an, a UNESCO World Heritage Site;
- Eagles galore!
- Invasive Alien Birds in Hawai’i: don’t get fooled by their beauty;
- Life time bucket list: follow Thousands of Snow Geese;
- Watch a heron take out a crocodile!
- The best birding in Costa Rica;
- Explore Isla Contoy in Calcun;
- When hiking is too hard: birds on the Manoa Falls Trail;
- Kennebunkport Maine has good birding hotspots;
- Famous bird painting for booklovers: Where is The Goldfinch Painting now? and how it doesn’t even LOOK like a goldfinch;
- Lots of incidental birding on an Alaska Cruise;
- Last but not least: why birding is the best way to socially distance;
